Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
